We checked out of Malaysia and positioned the boat for a run to Satun Thailand. Found a lovely anchorage and enjoyed the evening waiting to move across the sea. It is only a 4 hour trip. But; besides the paperwork, we needed to avoid the rainy weather and catch the right tide for entering Satun. Not many yachts visit Satun. The shallows can be daunting and really, the port has little to offer the cruising yachtsman.
Our lovely pre departure anchor spot turned into an uncomfortable night. Enough of this. We moved around the corner and found a wee bit better anchor spot. Just over the mountain was Kuah but you would never know looking around Elysium. We were in the KiLiM Unesco Park. I don’t believe even the fisherman cast their hopes here. I’m not sure if commercial fishing in the park is legal. I suspect not. As fishing is their livelihood no one seems to be taking the risk. The evening was all we hoped for, cool and calm.
The following morning we rose and checked the weather. We knew the tide would be on our side if we left around 9:30 and made 5 kts the entire trip. All looks good. It is a go. We stored the dinghy engine and towed the dinghy. This is how anxious I was. There were indeed shallow, dry at low water areas and with a 2 meter tide and our draft being close to 2 meters I wanted to be able to set the dinghy up to check the depths of surrounding water; just in case Elysium kissed the bottom. In the end we stayed well away from the bottom. Considering in reality we only need an extra cm of water to stay moving and floating we were fine. However any wave or boat wake with a small margin of error can make the bottom an issue. The chart here was off a considerable amount. Markers too were ill placed on the chart. In my pre research I found one write up in visiting that helped. Helped a little bit. The Noonsite post is helpful but it was outdated.
Well, we made it. In spite of Neptune and Ma Nature throwing sticks in our path. I think they simply became bored with teasing us. With the 2 meter tide we never saw any water less than 3.5 meters. We’re anchored now! Whew!
Completing paperwork has never been my forte. Thus every country is a new adventure for me. For W/ maybe yes, maybe no; she is the better at details. We pump up the dinghy and put the engine and fuel tank on. In the midst of this we hoist the Q flag (correct etiquette) and both take quick showers. On NoForeign Land I see where the Customs house, Immigration office, and Port Captain are. This app is a god send to cruisers. I hesitate to say it makes cruising safer because one can still get into trouble. However; with this app we have the hive knowledge and experience of other cruisers.
We find the wharf where we can secure the dinghy. This place is not accustomed to cruisers. The wharf is big but we see a ladder that we can climb up. There we head to what looks like a closed immigration department. We look around. No one. I knock on a window and out the side door appears a female immigration officer. She invites us in and assists us by mostly filling out the paperwork for us. She must know that my handwriting has heaps of complaints on Handwriting advisor. LOL. Anyway; 15 minutes later and 600 BHT (300 per person) we are legal in Thailand.
Next stop the Port Captain’s office. There again we hauled out our documents, Passport, and Port Clearance from Malaysia. We waited. The officer disappeared into the air conditioned office while we hung out in the shaded antiroom. Another 15 minutes passed and he returns with paperwork to sign. We paid 500 BHT.
Customs was a bit farther way. We thought maybe of walking but Ma Nature had started to spit. So we climbed down to the dinghy and motored up the river, tying up to another old bollard with a dirty tire. At least there were some steps here, so exiting and entering the dinghy was straight forward. What wasn’t, I grabbed hold of the tire holding on for W to climb out of the dinghy. My hands came away dusted with a dirt tattoo. Here we walked around, knocked on some doors, opened one – an office but no one, and then moved onto another building with heaps of flags. There we found some staff who said they could assist us. The called another officer. Another 15 minutes later and two water bottles the officer showed up. Took our paperwork into the AC office, brought a form out for me to sign, and disappeared again. More time passed and like magic he appeared again. Finally we have the paperwork that says the boat is good for 6 months.
I find it odd, the boat is good for 6 months, but both W/ I and only have visas for 1 month. As the boat is our home it too will only be here for one month.
On to exploring some of the southernmost part of Thailand. We’ve passed this way 4 times and never stopped. It is time to stop and see what we have missed.
Go Slow
Sail Far
Stay Long