Satun – An Update

We’re back. Yeah, 30 days passes quickly the way we cruise. We like to stop and smell the flowers but 30 days barely gives us enough time to see them, yet alone to smell them.

A Thailand Longtail

We’ve circumnavigated Tarutao. We motored back to Satun with relatively calm seas and entered on a high tide. No issues. Great. We anchored further up the river hoping to get away from the early morning long tail traffic. We prefer to sleep past 3 am. That appeared to be when many of the long tails head out. Anchoring anywhere in the Satun canal is much like parking your motor home in the middle of a six lane highway. Constantly there is traffic.

We are not totally successful. There might be a slight decrease in the early morning traffic. I didn’t count. Throughout the day traffic appears the same. However; two other activities have replaced the lower traffic.

In this area; this Satun canal is the center of one of the fishing fleets. There is a boat yard and it is grinding away on a new wooden live aboard. Some of the larger vessels in the fishing fleet are hauled out with their corresponding pounding and welding. And… in a reminder of what Indonesia was like; we are in the audio distance of four Mosques. But; we had to come back. We’re required to check out of the port we cleared in at; so here we are.

After a few weeks away from city life we were running low on fresh supplies. Low on fresh fruits and vegetables, low on treats, drinks, and ice. We are after all Americans and we love our ice. Once settled in we looked at transportation to Satun. That and a place to dispose of our garbage. Yeah, products we buy are often wrapped in plastic, paper or metal. We collect it and do our best to properly dispose of it. The sea is plenty polluted, no need for us to add any more to it.

Using the Web we have read that we could take the dinghy up to the immigration / ferry dock and leave it there. So we tooled there and; well, leaving the dinghy there didn’t look the best. I had put the wheels on thinking we would pull it up on the ramp and tie it to a tree. It was low tide, the ramp looked slick, there was another larger local boat on it and W/ got the heebee jeebees thinking about the process. We headed back searching elsewhere.

Along the shore there appeared another dock, almost like a park dock. We call it a “Drunk Dock” as it had the blue floats. We pulled up to it and asked a local if we can leave the dinghy there. Yep. Great! I found a refuse container near by and we were able to deposit our garbage. Sweet, next step, getting a ride to Makro; a supermarket with loads of goods.

One of the locals wanted us to ride with him on a scooter. We don’t prefer to use scooters but we have. We feel a lot safer in an automobile and we didn’t know what the roads here would be like. Fifteen minutes later we had a ride and were on our way.

It was a good feeling getting fresh food and filling up our soon to be consumed stores. There was one very sad note at the time. They only had small packages of M & M Peanuts. I didn’t pick up any. I switched to Snickers. Not the worst snack but it would need to do. We didn’t find of the cereal liked. We had purchased and stored enough for this trip so… all was good.

With the cart full we paid and began the search for a return ride to Tamalang. Most everywhere in SE Asia we’ve used Grab and it has served us well. We arrived here using a Grab. I opened up the app and chose where our original point of departure. I waited. And waited. Nothing. I tried another ride share; InDrive. Nothing. Tried a third; Bolt. Nothing. By now 30 minutes had passed and we had… nothing. Makro is a bit N of Satun and there wasn’t much around. We were too far to walk. I tried all the apps going to the Bus station. At the Bus station I thought we might be able to secure a taxi. But that too was a fail. I considered offering money to shoppers for a lift back. With my size; approaching people and asking for something even if we were willing to pay just didn’t seem like a workable idea. A police vehicle showed up. I went to talk with him. He looked for minute like he might give me a lift back. But when I showed him the groceries and W/ he balked at the idea. By now people were interested. Till then we were just another set of boring tourists.

W/ thought maybe she could go in the store and see if someone spoke enough English and might assist. Another what seemed like 30 minutes went by. Out she came with some direction. Maybe ! We needed to download the app LineMan. Ok… I downloaded the app and went to register. The program wants to confirm who I am with a phone number. A Thailand phone number! Only expecting to be here for 30 days I put our Malaysian number on roaming. We didn’t have a Thailand number. This app is not going to work. W/ heads back inside.

She chats up with the female store employee and is able to explain the issue. They used Google translate with each other with some success. She comes out of the store with W/ and said she would help. She used her LineMan app and connects with a ride. She would do the negotiating when he arrived … in 10 minutes. Yeah!

Ten minutes passed, then another 10 and then as W/ was ready to check with the women assisting; out of the store she and another employee came and pointed to the vehicle. We had a ride! She spoke with him and for 500 BHT we would get back to the dinghy and the boat. W/ tried to give the her a little something but she woudn’t take it. As others had been witnessing of our dilemma; when we loaded into the vehicle they too were smiling. Glad to see that we’re on our way.

Floating Public Dock

Our driver returned us to exactly where our dinghy was tied up. I had pointed out a wrong turn but we did get back on track. As W/ often says, I ought to keep quiet. 🙂 I added a bonus for him, we unloaded and thanked him with the few Thai words we know. His English was much better than our Thai and we; mostly W, had chatted him up on our return trip. We’re back. We’re back! Whoopee! Alka-selzer isn’t the only relief one can find when out cruising.

Go Slow
Sail Far
Stay Long

ps By the way if any are readding this and want to pick up supplies in Satun; the much better place is Big C; still in Satun.

A Most Obnoxious Night

We picked up a mooring at the Emerald Cave (Ko Muk). Paid the ranger for our stay here 200 Tbt / person and 100 Tbt for the boat on the mooring.

For the most part, all seemed good. The reflected waves were… ok. Reflected off the rock wall and the breeze; as little as it was; seemed fine. We spent some time watching the locals harvest Jellyfish. You read correctly… they were collecting Jellyfish. We don’t remember it on the menu but I did see that is one of the consumables in Thailand. We retired at the usual time and were awakened during the tide change. And that; is when Neptune’s demons struck. Not with unimaginal force but with an itch that can not be scratched.

The reflected waves with the swell moved the boat in an unnatural way. Every so often one wave would strike the stern splashing water in every direction. With our Elysium’s stern we rarely, I mean rarely have any wave slap on the bum. But; now we did. Two three in a row and then quiet. A minute later one or two more and then quiet. Repeat ad nauseum.

Couple that event with one of the demons playing with our mooring ball. No matter what I did, like teens in love, the mooring ball would kiss our hull. As they kissed, a rather loud thump could be heard throughout the boat. The light wind, really light wind would blow the boat over the mooring, the waves would then rock the boat and mooring ball continuously kissing the hull. As the breeze dropped to less than a puff, the minimal current would drive the boat; you guessed it, to the ball. At times the two demons would tease us; appearing that we would sit behind the ball leaving us in a peaceful quiet place. Not so. The ball and boat just kissed in a different place.

I tried shortening up the scope. No good. I tired lengthening the line to the mooring, no good. When daybreak hit, we left. It was not a good night. The irony is: had we simply gone around the S end of the island there was a much nicer, as picturesque of an anchorage.

Go Slow
Sail Far
Stay Long

Haul Out List

Yearly or bi-yearly maintenance is important for a cruising boat to stay in top shape. Some people try to cheat Neptune and buy bottom paint that works for years. Few of those gimmicks ever work. More people I know that use / have used the “Coppercoat” system are disappointed in the results than are happy with it. And cruisers talk. Talk, and talk.

We’ve needed to pay our debt to Neptune for a couple of months. We planned on hauling in Krabi Boat Lagoon (KBL) after our Visa run in February. KBL was our pace; relaxed, a clean yard, and someone we could communicate with to match our needs. Added to that, there was a place off the boat we could stay while the boat was on the hard (with Air conditioning) , a good restaurant on site, and quiet. The only thing missing, the only thing! Was a marine store with yard materials. Bring your own. Or you can order from East Marine Asia and it would arrive one or two days later. Lazada was another place to acquire parts but take up to 2 weeks for delivery.

So we hauled the boat. We hired Jack (the marina manager) and his crew to do the bottom work and polish the hull. Our jobs were inside the boat.

Service all the seacocks. (Completed)
Remove the broken bolt from the AutoProp. (Completed)
Replace the Zincs. (Completed)
Replace Water Maker Pre Filters. (Completed)
Removed Tiptoe Leaking foot pump from system. (Completed)
Change galley sink filter. (Completed)
Clean and apply Prop One to the Propellor. (Completed)
Replace the Seal on Tides Dripless Stuffing Box (Completed)
Clean the bilge (Minimally Completed)
Add an Anchor wash down pump. (Completed)
Strip the old varnish off the hatches and revarnish. (Not Competed)
Add Wind Indicator to Masthead. (Not Competed)
Finish Varnishing Cap Rails. (Not Completed)
Replace Bilge Pump Sensor Hose. (Completed)
Update a couple of our rigging wires. (Not Competed)
Add SS countertop to sink area. (On hold)
Build out Rub Rail. (On hold)

My head plant on the tile floor slowed us down. W/ took up much of the slack in my hiatus with what she could do. We will do the Wind Indicator when back in Langkawi. The rigging is not critical. We’ll also continue to work on keeping the teak varnished. Varnished teak for us looks good as well as protects it from the effects of age.

We’re back in the water today, moving to Port Takola Marina where the depth in their harbor is more to our liking. There we will clean up from being off the boat and in the yard. Add to prepping for our return to Rebak Marina.

Go Slow
Sail Far
Stay Long

A Pleasant Surprise

Port Takola

Cruising friends on Wanda mentioned this marina: Port Takola. By all appearances it is not much; yet. Just starting out in the marina world requires that building it has been happening for a bit over a decade. Port Takola marina is a calm spot on the west side of Krabi town. A restaurant, showers, fuel dock, haul out facilities and a few trades people. We pulled in and met the staff. Friendly and willing to assist with what cruisers need. And, we had a few things on our list.

We needed to visit the “other” marina to arrange a haul out, replace the zinc on the dinghy engine, strip the old varnish- epoxy coating off the cap rail, polish up the SS, and replace some canvas sewing where the threads had reached their end of life. We would have hauled here; if there was a place near by to stay. It is hot, messy, and impossible for us to leave the boat a mess working on while living on it. We do our best to NOT stay aboard during haul outs.

Takola Marina Polishers

We started with the SS. Met Ricardo and arranged for 2 of his employees to polish the SS. In the 2 decades we’ve been cruising we’ve never had such a competent job accomplished. The welds look (almost) brand new! They did such a good, thorough job we hired them to remove the vanish- epoxy coating from the cap rails. Avid readers may recall we had this “great” (not) 5 year epoxy coating applied in Australia. I have a complete explanation of the issue here. Time to remove it and apply a more time tested coating.

While they were working on the boat we took to other mundane tasks cruising requires. We visited the other Marina and began the arrangement for our haul out. Dave received a thorough hair / beard trim, massages were in order, and we did a wee bit of touring. Rebecca (a long time cruising friend) from the US was traveling near by and came to hang with us off and on for a few weeks. Sharing past memories and making some new ones.

We had discovered a diamond in the making in Thailand; Port Takola. Thanks sv Wanda!

Go Slow
Sail Far
Stay Long

Visa Run – Part 1

Many times I have indicated two outside forces make us move: 1) Weather, and 2) Government rules. In Malaysia the visa requirement makes us jump.

The boat can remain in Malaysia as long as we wish. The owner; if they are foreigners, can not. We get 90 days or in practical terms a wee bit less. Pushing the envelope and staying 90 has its own risks. Thus after 88 days (yeah we were close) we headed to another country. This time Thailand. And, we headed there without Elysium.

I love traveling. I don’t love traveling without our home. Elysium is mobile. A perfect way to go anywhere on water with all you need. Packing to leave without Elysium is a PITA. I don’t want to forget anything and I can’t take everything. Passports (PP), cash, cards, clothes, etc. All must travel with us.

We were packed, had our tickets out and left the boat at 5:45 am. The ferry from Rebak to Langkawi left at 6 am. We didn’t want to miss it. Our paper work said to be at the ferry dock 90 minutes early. We’ve since discovered that may be a bit of overkill. We arrived 2 hours early and everything, well, most everything was closed. Starbucks was open. But coffee is not my thing ! 🙂 We couldn’t find where to check in. There were signs saying the lounge check in was upstairs in the terminal. We went upstairs and everything, EVERYTHING was locked up and there was no place that even looks like a lounge.

We wandered around the lower level; found someone awake and asked him. He pointed us to the entrance to the ferry; immigration and we found seats and waited. People showed up. We waited. And then we were lucky. One set of travelers asked if we had checked in? We thought it was where we were at. Nope! One traveler was kind enough to show us. Ironic it was upstairs.. It was on the opposite side of the building where we first had settled. Once there we frantically filled in our paper work. Received our boarding sticker and hustled back to the boarding area. Once first, we’re now almost last.

Pass through the first check, have a boarding pass and our passports. The second was Immigration. W/’s guy cleared hers quickly while mine counted on fingers ensuring that I had not gone over the 90 days. Through immigration we now had the room full of people lined up to board. We made it.

Fast Ferry Langkawi Malaysia

The line moved quickly and we soon we were seated on the ferry. We had two backpacks and we were able to keep them with us. We travel light and losing one, even misplacing one would be an issue. At the gate they took and kept our passports. We didn’t like that happening but there was no alternative. (Note: if you are a US citizen when you apply for the PP you can request a duplicate.) They were handed over at the gate keeper we were onboard.

Thirty knots. That was our speed. The ride was smooth. The boat was loud. The engines roared and conversation all was muted. W/ was able to sleep. The seats did NOT recline but otherwise were comfortable for the 2 hour journey. At Koh Lipe, our destination the ferry moored offshore. We transferred to a smaller ferry that moved us to a floating dock. If you ever wish to be intoxicated without drinking, walk one of these docks. A thousand 10 gallon canisters were connected like legos. We walked on them; a balancing act all the way.

Ashore, one young Thai with a microphone loved informing everyone that they must get in the passport line and then to immigration. Sometimes we are lucky. Being the last on the ferry pushed us towards the first group off. That put is early in the PP retrieval line. As we picked them up the women in the booth asked where were we going? I said Krabi and we had a car waiting. She said we needed to get another boat to Pakbara. I didn’t understand why. Our arrangement with the travel agent was that she would pick us up at the port. I moved on. I am sure the PP agent smiled knowing I would be back. We cleared into immigration without an issue. Fingerprints and photo now on file in 25-30 countries. We skipped the park fee since we were not staying.

Now to find the car. Which by the way was not here. And we didn’t understand. We contacted our agent and said we were at the port. She couldn’t see us, we couldn’t see her.

Continues in Part 2…

Go Slow
Sail Far
Stay Long