Antigua Bound

Yep, we’re in Antigua, Jolly Harbor to be exact. After a few days at Grande Case, St. Martin; we motored around (it’s only 5 nm) to Orient Bay were the action was happening. This is described as the “French Riviera” of the Caribbean and indeed if I can imagine the Riviera since I haven’t been there; it was. Besides the lack of clothing on the beach there were things happening all around. Over 10 jet ski’s at any one time, two boats pulling the parasailers, wind surfers sailing by, snorkelers mosying by, and of course beach restaurants all along the shore.  We hung there for a day and thought the anchorage wouldn’t be too bad for the evening. We were farther out than we would have liked but the new motor on the dinghy made trips ashore much easier for

Wendy's New Ride

Wendy's New Ride

W/. Once all the boats and jet ski’s stopped the anchorage actually got worse. Waves broke over the reef on one side and curled in the channel on the other and the net result was more roll and less pitch. With the evening wind slacking we ended up with some slightly uncomfortable roll (not St. Thomas like :) ).

The following day we were to sail to St. Barts and hang out at a park then that evening head out to Antigua. The prior evening when I had risen about midnight the winds had shifted slightly N or NE. Great, the following evening should that happen we might actually get to sail some to Antigua. What a treat that would be. :)

Leaving Orient Bay we unrolled the Jib and floated along at about 3.5 kts.  Not fast but hey! We’re not motoring. However the sail wasn’t to last for long. When we slowed to around 2 kts (slower then a stroll on land) we rolled the jib in and started the Iron Genny (the engine). We motored the last 8 nm to St. Barts and picked up a free mooring at the park. The time waiting we watched the boats come and go, watched hikers climb the hills in the park, watched the charterers cruise around 10 to a dinghy, took a nap, and readied ourselves to leave soon after midnight.

Midnight arrived sooner then we would have wished. We set up the boat for leaving and slowly motored out of the harbor and then turned S for rounding St. Barts. Again we tried to sail, tried motor sailing and eventually rolled up the sail.  We kept hoping for the breeze that the gribs said would be and for the winds that the evening before we had but obviously Mother Nature just chose to not read the weather reports! We were cursed with burning more fossil fuels. On goes the engine and forward towards Antigua we traverse.

We motored slowly at first mostly 4-5 kts attempting to keep the spray down and because it was still dark. The current didn’t help and although the data shows the current at only .4 kts against us I think there was more. As daylight approached we added speed to the boat and cruised the rest of the way between 5 - 6 kts.

Still not fun. Although we didn’t take on much water; hardly any, we kept up a  steady misting of salt water. So in essence we were building up a layer of salt on the decks. The mist would hit the boat and instead of taking the salt and running off it would evaporate and leave a salty surface behind that was actually as rough as the non skid. Fortunately we hid behind the dodger for most of the trip (except for fishing).

I’m tired of motoring and I’m tired of reading and I’m tired of doing Sudoku. So I hang out a couple of lures. Two hours later I’m watching as one pole looks to bend then it stands right up. Damn, I check the line and it’s flying free. Damn. I discover I had way too much drag on it and the line broke at my knot on the swivel. DAMN! Ok, there goes 10 bucks. Get another lure out, another swivel, tie it on better ( I hope) and let her go. This time I check the drag and make sure it will drag.

About 5 hours later we’re coming up on the banks and have watched Antigua grow off the horizon. I’m getting ready to pull the lines in because mostly on the banks the fish that one can catch ain’t the fish I want. About 60 seconds before I summon the energy to move my behind from the seat aft the dodger the new lure I put out goes ZING!  Wendy rushes to slow the boat and I rush to the  line that now has a fish. As the boat slows she hauls in the other line (we don’t really want two fish at a time again) and I notice that what we’ve caught is a Barracuda. DAMN!  We don’t eat those because of the potential for Ciguatera. So we haul it aboard, using a pliers and leather gloves I take the hook out and then slide him / her over the side for the ocean to do with it what it will. It will either survive or be a meal for a larger fish. Out of the three parties; us, the fish, or the fishes main course, one will be happy. But now the Barracuda has torn up another skirt on another lure. Not a good day fishing.

Easy Clearance

Easy Clearance

Clearing in in Jolly Harbor Antigua was sweet. Although the guide said that the officials were there till 1700 we had arrived too late. We made the dock by 1630 and were informed that Customs had already left but we could stay tied here and it would be ok if we ate ashore. W/ was happy. We tied up, cleaned up, and then Jim and Cheryl arrived on Orion. They were Antigua regulars and had just arrived from Guadaloupe and needed to clear in too. So they tied on the other side of the finger pier and we shared some stories w/ them as well as bored them with ours.

The following am we cleared in with Customs, Immigration and the Port Captain. We’re now good to go. So out to a mooring we motored to finish getting the boat ready for Antigua. Mike and Jenny (from Annopolis) are down on a chartering / diving vacation so we’ll see them on their return.
Good times; Soon come.

Fair Winds

Congrats to Infini

Yep, Mike and Sue on Infini are now Shellbacks. The boat’s been there before but never with them. They’ve crossed the Equator and are now in the Galapogos. If you want to read about their trip they posted every day, I believe, and you can begin here.

As for us we’ve moved out of Simpson Bay and the Miami of St. Martin. We bought a little 2 hp for our rowing

Crepe' Hunt

Crepe' Hunt

dinghy. As W/ liked to say it wasn’t easy rowing my Lard A___ in!  She rowed to keep the dinghy balanced better which allowed us to avoid shipping any water aboard.  I did buy a spare set of oar locks but haven’t
installed them yet. We’ve been enjoying some new and different culture (not the canned culture of the VI’s). I’ve looked for the perfect crepe, we’ve tried to learn some French and we’ve been back and forth between two countries (Dutch and French) every other day. Fortunately, if you only take your person and dinghy you can freely move from one to the other here as long as you’ve properly cleared in.

We spent en expensive evening with some soon to be new cruisers (Jan and Darwin on Family Affair) eating a

Carnival @ St. Martin

Carnival in St. Martin

Valentine’s dinner on the French side. There too we saw the tail end of the Carnival Parade.  We’ve met more cruisers here in 1 week then in 2 months in the VI’s. One neat couple  (Will and Ann on Como No)that anchored next to us are just about to complete their 13 year circumnav and we were lucky enough to trade charts (and books) with them. They’re heading towards Texas and we’re heading S yet.

Lobsters Soon Gone

Lobsters Soon Gone

We’re currently in Grand Case, basically a tourist hotspot with more restaurants then people (see all the live - soon not to be - lobsters). A couple of grocery stores and a beautiful beach. We didn’t think the guy pulling the dinghy full of tourists off the beach would make it but sure enough a little larger swell rolled in and he was

Will it Move?

Will it Move?

able to haul their; as W/ call it Lard A____s off :) ) It’s nice moving the boat and being somewhere else but there is a little swell running here. Still it’s ok. As Dirk say’s on Lison Life “we like sissy anchorages” and he’s entirely correct. Today we’re thinking of going to Oriental Beach (on the other side of the top of the island) and then I’ll take the bus in to check out for Antigua.  We’ll see. The wind piped up last night and remember: We’re sissies. :)

Fair Winds

Dune

Yep; the BVI’s are to cruisers a vast desert. And yes I did name this blog after a GREAT book, Dune by Frank Herbert. I’ve just finished the last two in his series (yeah, he’s been gone 20 years), but his son and another author found an outline for the last book and since they’ve been writing Dune offshoots they  took it upon themselves to finish Herbert’s  last book (which they turned into two). What a great read.

However; traveling in the VI’s and the BVI’s is akin to traveling in a desert.  All the people are so foreign. Yeah, they may love boats, they may speak English, and love sailing but they don’t wish to share with cruisers. They’re here to party and see everything they can in a week or maybe two (Why one charter boat was giving people a tour of the BVI’s - 5 islands in one day!). About 1/2 of the charterers will wave back at you if you wave to them first! But actually meeting someone, sitting and having drinks with them, telling stories about boats, cruising and life; that just doesn’t happen here (It did happen once - we met a cool couple from NY of all places). The young want to party till the sun comes up, the older ones want to hang with their friends they’ve chartered with. Nothing wrong with that; just that  there is so much of it here we feel like we’re in exile.  We’ve not really met many new people, something we’re not really use to. All the people that we’ve met new here either work or are chartering.  And the charters are like lightening bugs. They last for a few minutes and then they’re gone. The  people working are cool but they have an agenda; a goal and they’re not loosing site of that goal. One “set of workers” said that they were working their tail off for “freedom chips”; aka $$$’s.  What for?  I guess they don’t figure anyone hanging around St. Thomas or the BVI’s is worth knowing. LOL

And the VI’s  are beautiful; but anyone can see the beauty in pictures. So we’re left to

Driving Range

Driving Range

entertaining ourselves. We’ve actually found a couple of tennis

Nanny Cay Tennis ?

Nanny Cay Tennis ?

courts and although we’re not golfers one driving range. One disappointing one was at Nanny Cay (where we paid to stay at the marina). At Nanny Cay there was no net, no fence, and obsticles on the court. The others we’ve seen (one requires you be a guest at their Expensive resort and the other at Leverick Bay charges $20 / hour. So, we’ve been walking as much as possible. We’ve not really been diving as in the BVI’s I can’t spear fish or lobster. :(  So I’m not really interested in going in the water then. But we’ve enjoyed walking and there are some hiking trails to the tops of the mountains where there are maintained lights for navigation or antennas or simply junction boxes for phone lines or electrical wiring.

Personal beef: I can’t really stomach that in places that don’t have the acrutiments we’re use to want to charge more the places that do!  Such as tennis. Here you get a carpeted court with sand brushed on, no strap on the fence, no club house, sometimes water sometimes not.  Where do they really get off thinking that they are worth more then in the US?  In Jost Van Dyke, you can get a pig roast dinner, eaten on picnic tables on a sandy / dirty floor for $30!

View Hiking (Saba Rock)

View Hiking (Saba Rock)

Leaving the trails we took a complimentary ferry to Gun Harbor and walked to Leverick Bay. Up the mountain (and they don’t really seem to believe in switch backs here) and then along the ridge past the Elementary school and down the other side. One noticeable difference here is that there aren’t as many cars nor as many people as in St. Thomas. Thereby making walking on the roads 100% safer. In St. Thomas we tried some walking along the roads but actually felt that it wasn’t safe so we had to either look for sidewalks or take a Safari ( a locals taxi). Here we walked with narry a car passing us and when they did there was plenty of room. The most dangerous part of the walk was the goats by the road and the steep inclines. Going up the road wasn’t near as difficult as going down, and the the goats were more warry of us then we of them.

In Leverick Bay we discovered that they have laundry machines that we can use; showers that come with the mooring, and a couple of restaurants. But the down side is no internet at the boat. A horrible down side. So I’ll either take the computer ashore (which I don’t like to do) or wait till we’re back on the Saba Rock side for the internet.  We don’t have to have it but it surely makes checking out the wx much easier and to add pictures to the blog  is then possible. We can’t send pics over the ham network.

Now we’re getting ready to leave. Tomorrow am early we should be on our way to St. Martin. The winds have finally calmed down enough that we can motor for 12 hours what would otherwise take 24 to sail or more. With the wind and current against us sailing isn’t much fun. And the saying that “Gentlemen never sail to windward” we’re trying to abide by. So hopefully our next post will be in St. Martin and there I’ll finish up on any observations of the BVI’s.

Fair Winds

Disneyland

I’ve finally figured out why I wasn’t enamored with the BVI’s.  They’re too much like Disney world. The country is setup for tourists. They bring tourists in by the boat load, (or plane load), everything is as neat and pristine as can be, most everything is done for you, the characters all play their parts and you go away with a great vacation experience. The place is beautiful beyond a doubt. The beaches are for the most part clean,  the water crystal drinking clear (don’t try to drink it as the salt will do wonders to your stomach with a brief visit only to return the same way), the mountains. The people are nice but not really open and one can’t really expect them to be.

I mean; how many people really get to know Goofy, or Mickey, or Mini at the World. The only way to get into Disney World  culture is to get a job there (one thing we’re not really interested in doing). So all the tourists see is what’s on the surface.

Wendy described getting to know a Caribbean Island as speed dating. However in speed dating you have two people making a connection. In the BVI’s (and AVI’s) you really only have one couple trying to make a connection (us). I would say visiting the VI’s is more like partaking in an escort service (I’m only surmising here). Maybe a fun evening; but one would never know the truth.

I understand St. Croix is different. Sorry we didn’t get there. There are so many places to see in the Caribbean that only if we wanted to spend 10 years or more cruising this area could we expect a better experience. And we’re not going to hang in the Caribbean for 10 years. There are too many boats here already!

Fair Winds

Work Update

Why hang in the Virgins?  Working on stuff on the boat. Mostly those that know us know we had a minor problem with the Roller Furling the last 6 hours of our trip south.

So to help those not familiar with cruising understand that this is truly not a vacation but a style of living I’m going to list what much of our work load has been these last few weeks.

  • Remove the Genoa. (Contact and discuss with sailmaker how we wanted to have it repaired and changed)
    Fitting grabs Line

    Fitting grabs Line

    Remove Roller furling track  ( Contact and order new track. Get mailing address for track to be shipped to)

  • Change the oil in the generator.
  • Replace Control Lines on  Self Steering
    Add screw / bolt on push pit so the control blocks don’t slide
    Add new saltwater manifold. Fix saltwater manifold (it leaked). Fix failed. Build new saltwater manifold. (This entailed getting new parts which meant walking to hardware store and back).
  • Discover that two pumps are mounted vertically when they should be mounted horizontally. Change the mounting which entails cutting new hoses and replumbing and changing some electrical wiring. (I hate plumbing on the boat!) Fixed. Now when motoring at 6 kts the DC refrigeration will work. However sailing on a port tack still gets enough air in the line to stop the refrigeration. But! Once air is in the line and we’re back upright I don’t need to purge the line, the DC refrigeration will start back up fine.
  • Replumb the raw water for the Generator. Three Times! Discover 2 small oil leaks. Contact Aquamarine about. Fix oil leak by using a hammer and punch to reset press in plug in the cast block. Tighten fitting on other leak.
  • Remove upper spreader lifts (W/ had to haul me up the mast again).
  • End for end lines on Genoa.
  • Shorten Head Stay. (This required removing the stay - I needed W/ to haul me up the mast, dropping it to the deck, cutting the wire, removing the Hayn fitting, reinstalling the end fitting, then reattaching the wire - W again needed to haul me up the mast.)
  • Fix roller furling head fitting.
    Can't get Caught

    Can't get Caught

  • Add new roller furling track. This took almost 4 weeks from the time we started to time of installation for the track to arrive! Installing  involved two days work - well about 8 hours labor between W/ and I. I at least didn’t need to go up the mast again.
  • Re-tune the rigging
  • Replace Genoa (wait for as calm a day as possible and then haul it up and furl it.
  • Bought a “cruising cart” a dolly so I could haul heavy stuff without having to make many, many trips.
  • Adjust tightening screw on the two forward facing ports as they’re too tight an currently not leaking.
  • Re-tighten port screws as just 1/4 turn caused them to leak.

reinstallingfamet

Re-Installing the Track

In the BVI’s we….

  • Polished most of the Stainless Steel.
  • Cleaned / waxed the area the engine exhaust makes black on the hull
  • Re-cut the awning poles (for large awning) and added so now we have full boat shade again
  • Washed the boat really, really, really, well.

All the while these projects were ongoing we attempted to enjoy being here - well as much as we could. Meeting past cruising chums, coming up with a couple new ones. We did all the laundry several times which entails walking two large bags (I couldn’t get W/ to do it more frequently :)  ) so we carried the bags to the laundry.

SS Wire Hose Clamps

SS Wire Hose Clamps

Famet Details:  Notice the wire clamps. The Clamptite tool is really a god send on the boat. I’ve easily saved the price in hose clamps and there are situations I didn’t want a hose clamp that the tool works …….. GREAT!  Also notice that the wire runs over the screws that hold the head fitting on so they can’t come out!

St. Thomas: Not a Virgin

Jan 3: I woke first. We were rolling I would guess 10 degrees side to side. We’re so tired of rolling. Crossing over the horizontal makes life miserable. I get up and move to the foredeck to ascertain how I can stop us from rolling so bad. It’s a little after midnight and I see three dinghies come racing up and stop 100 yards behind the boat next to us. I call W/ she sticks her head up and we watch. Soon; three dinghies go up on plane and two stop at the boat next to us while the other keeps running by.

We watch a bit longer to see if the owner of the boat is on one of the dinghies. Doesn’t seem like it. They’re messing with the dinghy only and not getting on the boat. What to do? Like any good citizen I call 911 and reach the Charlotte Amalie Police Department. (My take was that I don’t want to shoot someone I don’t know for maybe stealing something that isn’t mine; and I don’t want to be shot at, and I thought it would be best to have the authorities catch them as opposed to just scaring them off to steal another day). Unfortunately the police don’t seem all that concerned. I tell them something isn’t right; I describe the situation to them. I tell them exactly where the suspects are and they take down the information. I tell them when they’ve taken the dinghy where the suspects are. I tell them that they’re about 100 yards from the Coast Guard Station which makes them about 200 yards from the Police station! They say they’ll keep it in mind or some such nonsense. I’m told I can call back later for a follow up if I wish.
When the dinghy was gone W/ shone a light on the boat next to us and got Nick up. We told him to call the police; that we had but they didn’t seem all that concerned. They weren’t sure the dinghy was being “stolen”. He called. I don’t think there was a whole lot of action yet.
Also I called the Coast Guard on VHF channel 16. I connected with CG San Juan and told them the situation and that the suspects were less then 100 yards off the CG station Charlotte Amalie. They told me to call the police. I had informed them that I had and hadn’t received much concern from them. I had thought one of the CG’s responsibilities was to protect property (maybe the property has to the have a value of lets say…… 1 million dollars or more). Obviously I’m wrong. (Note: I’ve always been told in education to think like in business. Now here I am a citizen informing a governmental agency of a crime being committed and instead of them contacting the police I’m told to contact the police. In business; when my DSL line was having issues and I called the company that I paid, they in turn called the company they had contracted to and made sure that all parties knew what was going and that it would be fixed by such and such a time. Obviously; the police and CG haven’t received any notice of working together to prevent crimes! )
About 10 mins later; or less, another couple of cruisers came by in a rather large dinghy - 50 hp center console. Our neighbor may have called them; I don’t know, but they were looking for one of their dinghies that had been taken. They picked up Nick and asked where I saw the dinghies last. I told them that I had seen them and they were off the CG station heading towards Hassell Island. They took off towards Crown Bay Marina, just on the other side of Hassell Island on the big island.
I put a bridle on the anchor chain and that set the boat to facing the surge that was coming in the harbor. That slowed the roll down considerably; enough that we could get some sleep. However; about an hour later I was awakened and looked around the harbor, then I noticed that Nick had his dinghy back. Great!
In the following am I waved Nick over as he was heading to work and got his story. They had found the guys in an industrial cove on the other side of Sub Base. The police had arrived there too as they were in off and on contact with the police. He said that one individual had pulled a gun on them, but then put it away when they had just wanted to ask some qsts. When Nick had left he said that the police had two people in handcuffs. He also said that the Department of Natural Resources in the VI’s was there and they were questioning the owners of the dinghies about registrations! You have something stolen and the powers that be want to see you’re sales receipt. How ludicrous! I can imagine what would happen if someone robs a homeowner and they want to check to see if they’re taxes are up to date. Or how about before they respond they check the tax records! Does that mean that only some of the population deserves police protection?
You can see the account on noonsite. It was posted the following day. The word on the street (bay) was that one individual was the son of the chief of police and so they let them go. Another individual said they were all “born here’s” so they let them go. I can’t believe that in the US this would happen; even a US Territory The police didn’t seem interested in getting any prints. The dinghies were by this time in the hands of their owners. One dinghy was slashed up – there goes a grand to two. Sounds to me like “Case closed”.
I am further amazed that with all the boaters there, the political community seems to have so little respect. Maybe if all the boaters voted there it would be different but hey; it shouldn’t need to be. The boaters are mostly working there, doing jobs no one else is or doing jobs that require a skill that no one else has, they bring money to the island (one cruiser said he spends on the island what he makes. :)  ) , they bring a healthy work ethic to the place and a good set of values. What more could a community want. Obviously something I don’t know about.
BTW, Nick’s dinghy was double locked with cables. The thieves had cable cutters (don’t know if they had bolt cutters).

The Old St. Thomas

The Old St. Thomas

Another cruiser on Daniels Story described St. Thomas as an island that doesn’t know it. In the VI’s their business is “Cruise ships”. That is their main business and it really seems like mostly that is all the government is really concerned with. The community that existed 20 years ago we barely saw. This pic taken during our visit this time shows a thriving past. That past is long gone. No more is there much fishing, no real agriculture, no real industry, no real ranching. Now the island is only about 40 square miles but if the cruise ships should stop tomorrow, they’ll have a difficult time eating all the gold and diamonds.
Then the story we received is that Dubai talked the old Yacht Haven Marina into building a marina for only the mega yachts. And yes there are loads of obscene megayachts that now transit and even hang out in the area. One, Kismit, owned by an individual in the Midwest charters his out for a paltry $600,000 per week plus expenses! Another was so big I’m not sure it could get into the new Yacht Haven Grande Marina. This private yacht on its deck carries a 40’ sailboat and a 40’ motor yacht (Le Grand Bleu). While we were about to leave St. Thomas, we went to the Crown Bay Marina to fill up on fuel. We needed to take on about 100 gallons. Up anchor at 8 am; they opened at 8 am and went to the fuel dock. We couldn’t get in. There were two boats tied up to the fuel dock (One named “13” and the other something “Bleu”) They took on 10,000 and 9,000 gallons respectively and closed the dock down for about 4 hours. So much for our getting out of St. Thomas this am.

But as in all cruising we look for the show and here we weren’t disappointed! After “13″ filled up with fuel (having spent $30,000 +) they were ready to leave. Crown Bay had kindly let us tie up to an end pier. But about 15 minutes before 13 was ready to leave they felt the need to put another megayacht on the T we were tied to. So we moved and then another 100+ footer moved to the end of the T. As 13 tried to get out, they now couldn’t because they hadn’t enough room to make the turn. So out they attempted to go; and 10 minutes later after probably another 100 gallons of fuel they went back to the fuel dock. Then the captain of Bleu had to move that boat to anther T so 13 could now maneuver out. This entire process took most likely 30 minutes to rearrange all the $$$$$’s. After Bleu was out of the way and all the multimillion dollar boats were settled, they waved us over. We took on 92 gallons of fuel, picked up a bag of ice and finally, finally, left St. Thomas for points E and S.
I wasn’t really thinking I would love the VI’s this time around. I haven’t been disappointed. Had they not been a convenient stop and a place to repair the damage from my stupidity we would have been; long gone.
Adios

Breakfast at TifAna’s

Yeah, for whatever reason Ana and Zdravko decided they hadn’t yet had enough of us and invited us to a breakfast at Chez’ Hazana 600′ up the mountain side. (Chez’ Hazana is their home).

It’s amazing that Zdravko and Ana were the first true “cruisers” I met coming down the Mississippi all those years ago. We split up in New Orleans, touched base just outside of Pensacola, Fl, and then 3 or 4 years later when they were just launching their charter business to Buck Island we connected with them again in Charlotte Amalie.

Well 29 years later it’s like we’ve never really parted. Oh, there are qsts about some of the adventures we’ve each had in the ensuing years but for the most part we’re all in the here and now.

While in the here we chose the now to vote whether Ana should start a Breakfast Restaurant in Croatia. It was 3 for 1 against!  Guess who was against?  Yep Ana. Too bad, cause the French toast she made was just plain excellent, the mimossas were over the top :) and the omeletttes were a tasters delight all the way down. I’m sure Zdravko thought it would be good to have her doing something she loves….. and giving him some time to; dare I say it, take a nap;  we of course thought it would just be a great addition to Croatia breakfast at TifAna’s. But I doubt Ana will listen to the majority. She has a mind of her own and purpose that drives it. And what her purpose is only she knows and she will definitely let any know where they fit into her scheme when the time comes!

Thanks Ana and Zdravko for a great breakfast, great morning, and great friends.

Fair Winds

ps. Sorry no pics!  I think she want’s to keep it all a secret. :)

The Night Before New Years

In the Begining

In the Begining

It started this way. Dec 30 we planned on working on the repair of our roller furling track. We actually got one piece on!  In the am we looked over the mtn and saw the clouds were coming on low. The mtn top was disappearing. Cool. Yeah, right!  An hour later Brewers Bay was getting a down pour. Two hours later the wind had begun to build and we were getting rain. So much for working on our roller furling!

The winds went from a benign 10 kts to a raucous 20 kts gusting to 30 kts  in the anchorage. The boat would pull from side to side tugging on the anchor and chain while our snubber would once in awhile scream that it was stretched to the limit and back we would be pulled. The boat sails some at anchor and we were sailing! We pulled the foredeck awning down to reduce our windage and later between sheets of rain we pulled down our small sun rain awning that we have connected to the dodger. Most of that day we watched sheets of rain blown across the harbor and we hung out on the boat, reading, hanging on, and doing Suduko.

We awoke the following day - New Years Eve to more of the same. So again we hung out but today was offering a small pitance of excitement. We HAD to move the boat.  We knew it. But who expected this wx in Paradise?  Not I . So about noonish or there after we upped anchor and moved back away from the danger zone of misfired fireworks. With the wind having howled for the last 24 hours (two boats around us dragged - one with the new fangled never to fail Supreme Anchor and the other with a funny claw), we pulled up our funnier XYZ anchor. And we pulled and we pulled and we pulled. It was well set; we weren’t going anywhere. It took us a good 15 minutes to get it out of the bottom and then we moved back to a new farther away location off Charlette Amalie. Deployed it, picked up some junk on the bottom…. again; removed the piece of line from the anchor and re deployed it for the night.

We set the alarm; on a boat staying up much past dusk is difficult and with the fire works going off at midnight we felt the only way we would get to see them was to set the alarm. So we did. And we slept, it rained, it blew and at about 11:50 pm the alarm went off. Up we go; hiding behind the dodger to watch the fireworks in the wind and rain. They were however; surprisingly good. So as the New Year set in we set about to again retire to a  warm comfortable berth and await hopefully a new dawn.

Now I’m not going to get mushy here; who doesn’t wish others well on New Years?  It seems like the most important thing to do on New Years is to make a list and then not follow it:  I believe that is the current American trend. Since most all sailors have a list of varying length all the time we never made a New Years list. And since making resolutions seems to always be of lofty goals I’m just going to make a simple one.

My New Years Resolution is to “wake up tomorrow morning, and the morning after,  and the morning after,  ad nauseum!” A simple plan; one I hope I can stick to.

Fair Winds

ps In trying to continue to use book titles that above title is of a book. :)

Surrounded by Greatness

Ana, Joe, Jon, Mya, Loretta, Zdravko

Ana, Joe, Jon, Maya, Loreta, Zdravko

On Xmas we went to Ana and Zdravko’s. There we met her niece and her family. She’s a musician (W/ loved it because her forte’ is the piano), Joe her partner, and Maya and Johnny

Jon da Budding Photographer

Jon da Budding Photographer

their children. Now they’re all “normal” people as normal as any family in the 21st century can be.

Joe N Maya

Joe N Maya

What was interesting was that Loreta has given concerts twice at Carnegie Hall. Yep!  She’s famous and she plays a hell of a piano! W/ found her on You-Tube. She also has a crazy band called the Texas Slavs, writes music, plays and teaches piano.

So while Ana, Zdravko, W/ and I caught up on the years past we quizzed the clan about life in Texas, on the big stage, etc. Even Joe was on stage in Carnegie Hall when Loreta played a concert there with tendenitis in her right wrist. Joe went on stage and comically oiled her shoulder. Sounded like a hoot!  But to be there playing. Amazing!

W & Zdravko

W & Zdravko

Two days later we went to Brewers Bay to shorten the head stay. Calm and quiet; very little boat traffic. Perfect place. Up in the am, eat some breakfast and muscles W/ hauls my petite frame up the mast to remove the headstay from the mast head. I remove it; lower it and she kindly lowers me back down. So now we’ve cut off the 5″ (stretch) and I’ve taken off the terminal end and we hear a siren from what sounds like an ambulance. Well that’s weird; this generally is so quiet here; oh well, we keep working. A couple of minutes later the siren is louder and we hear a voice hollering “Hello”.  I go up on deck and the Department of Natural Resources are 3 meters away. “Yes” I say. They kindly and firmly tell us we need to move… now, immediately, soon because there is kindof an emergency!  Yeah right. I tell them it’s really difficult as I have some of my rig taken apart and they acquiese a bit and say soon, I can come back at 6pm tonight though!  Damn, Double Damn, Damn.  Luckily the mast will be fine as long as we’re not pounding. I have the headstay up and both intermediates and the backstay and both port and starboard shrouds. So we motor 5 miles away in basically calm seas to a small cove on Water Island called Flamingo. We had been there years ago sitting out some nasty wx and had looked at stopping there yesterday but a 100′ ship was anchored right in the middle. Fortunately the 100′ er was gone. So we anchored and got to work.

As we finished up we decided that it was too rolly there so we would look at Honeymoon Bay,  Elephant Bay and if they were all too crowded or rolly then back to Charlotte Amalie. They were TOO crowded. Years ago when we were here only about 10% of the boats were anywhere near those two bays that there are now! There had to be 20 boats in Honeymoon and about 75 or more in Elephant Bay!  Jerry from Percephanie tells us that all the people in the bays basically work on St. Thomas. He calls Elephant Bay and Long Bay (the one we’re in) the employee’s anchorage.

So we’re in Charlotte Amalie and to find out what all the fuss was about we picked up a local paper while doing the laundry. Come to find out Vice President Biden and his family are here to vacation with some friends on Water Island. Funny that DPNR wouldn’t let us anchor in Brewers bay (there were a total of 4 boats there), sent us to basically Water Island and that was where the VP and family were staying with about 150 other boats!

Then as I’m scanning the paper further I see that President Jimmy Carter and his family are vacationing in St. Croix. Now out of the three of them maybe Carter is the only one the majority would consider “Great”, I mean he did win a Nobel Prize and was President of the most powerful country on Earth at the time. The others you may choose to say are notable. But hey; there are more pro football players then VP’s and how many people in the world can claim to have entertained at Carnegie Hall. Not I!

Fair Winds

All I Want for Christmas is…..

Here now I could ask for a boat like the “Rising Sun” and a bank account to support her; but I doubt Santa will oblige, I could ask for immortality but then W/ and I would age differently; so instead I’ll ask simply that he talk to Mother Nature and stop the damn surge that is coming into the harbor and rolling us from side to side, and I’d ask that the items we’ve ordered show up before we choose to leave!  We’ve been lucky that neither of us have been thrown out of our berth’s yet. But; we’ve been close!  Some of the regulars to St. Thomas have said they’ve never seen the rolling this bad. Never!

And I say I hope Santa will do the above because in my world no matter what I would “ask” for I would always seem to get; underwear, new shirts, T’s, socks, slacks, etc.  Sometimes even shoes. I mean; I loved the shoes I had as I was growing up; they fit well, they were well ventilated, they had dirt and smudges in all the right places. They were comfortable. But no matter, Santa would find a reason to give me a new pair and my mom would do her best to sneak my favorite ones into the garbage while I would do my best to locate and continue to wear them. That’s how the cycle went.

For now we wait; tomorrow we’ll spend x-mas at Ana’s and Zdravko’s with their niece and her family. Then we’ll get massages that W/ and I gave each other for x-mas. After that; most likely we’ll pick up some groceries and move to a calmer anchorage so I can go up the mast, pull down the forestay, shorten the forestay by 3″ and put it back up. Then back to our anchorage here; hopefully minus the roll, to put up the roller furling track, get Ana and Zdravko out to the boat, pack a few things and begin our tour of the Virgin Islands. At this point we’re planning on going to the BVI’s briefly, then around the top of St. John then to St. Croix and then we’re not sure. We have two more things to pick up that we ordered; a spear gun and some great thread locking compound that has a zinc component to it so as to slow down or eliminate corrosion between dissimilar metal.

So Santa, if you can stop the roll, and speed up the mails then my belief in you will be restored. If not I’ll just be a…… doubting Dave.

Fair Winds